Loom



A. H, MCCARREL LO OM 2 Sheets-5heet 2 Filed June 13, i923 Patented May i9, i925.

ARTHUR E. MCGARREL, UF "WSHNGTN, :DISTRXCT OF COLUMBI" application lcc .Tune 13, 1923. Serial No. 645,179.

To all whom. if may come/1i Bf;- it known that l, luieren H. iifloCnimnL, a citizen of the United States, residing` at iilashington, in the District ot' Columbia, have invented a` new und useful Loon'1,`ot' which the 'following is a specilication.

lihis invention relates to a looin which is particularly adapted Ator Weaving a special fabric to be used in the manufacture of' soit or semi-soft turned-down collars.

The general object ot the invention isto construe'L a leoni, which `will enable those skilled in the art oi? weaving, to produce suitable fabrics oi" a texture, design, construction, type and detail out ont' which. :i soft or semi-sott folding' collar can be unumacturcd' with economy ot' labor; the collars being` of a turned-down or ,folding type, each lnade from one blank stamped out ot a special fabric and capable oi bein;r completed in a worlnnandike iiiani1e1,'zuid with a desirable finish as to details.

lt is a further object of theinyention to construct a looni on which a fabric may .he woven which is firm, smooth and level, which will be tree'from any internal stresses, which will readily' admit of easy and'economic handling and manufacturing in all subsequent processes of boiling, bleaching, drying and oalenderine preparatory to the stamping of the blanks for the collars, and in which, due to the construction and method et weaving, the filling picks will all be beaten up by means of a-curved reed, so that they extend across the fabric in parallel arcs, the curvature of `Which remains eonstout. t., Y

According to one method, narrow fabrics, in which the collar blanks run lengthwise, are Woven on narrow-ware looms with a conical takemlo motion. Such fabrics assume a spiral shape when doffed from the looms, and "this causes .extra care, trouble, Waste and expense in handling, during the processes of bleaching, calcndering, drying and linishng. The Weave of such narrow were fabrics on the narrow-Ware looms with the conical tak`eup motion is expensive; it is alniostirnpossible .to distribute the tension uniformly across thevvidth of the fabric; and the processes of bleachingy midlinishing produce, strains in such fabric ywhich are aptfto change the set of the curved leid-, x`-

ine that ie woven in such fabric for the n taeture off collars.

N easing the" Jfabric, it is my intention curve depending' upon the .shape ofthe i'eed to Weave it in suitablel Widths, so that the collar blanks may be cut trai'isversely ot the fabric, with the 'warp threads running trans-v versely ol the collar across the folding' line. For the niuuul'zufture ot a standard number A collar a tabl-ic about eighteen inches in 'width is required. Y

lli/'ith a loom constructed according` to my invention, the picks are all beaten up by the curved reed so that they run across the :tabric in ares which conform to the natural shape ol the collar, after the latter isl folded, and a narrow strip consisting of a predetermined nuiuber ot' picks deposited lunder a special weave is formed in each collar blank to constitute the folding line.

il.. incre complete exposition of thoinherout advantages o this specially Woven fabric, and the method of manufacturing col-v lars ircni the saine Will be -found in my eopendiug; applications ltiled June 13, 1923, El' l `Numbers (345,178 and 645,180.

,lu Wea. n steudurd loom i ith a {1y-shuttle pick mo.` tion, oi one uitli shuttle positively actu-5' ated by rack' and pinion may be used. In either case a chain motion 0r dobby head is used. Whatever type of loom is used, the structure thereoil will be modified, in accordance with the present invention, so that the curved reed may be used, and it found necessary or desirable, a curved lay may bef used. l

ln the weaving ot' ordinary cloth the Warp threads run lengthwise thereo'and the filling' is beaten up by a straight reed disposed atiright angles to the' length of thecloth, so that each pick of filling' extends across the 'width oit' the cloth at right angles to the Warp threads. 'ln Weaving with the present invention having a curved eed, each pick of filling when beaten up and permanently set in the cloth. tonus a vcurve`across the. Width of cloth, the nature and .extentfoil'l used. ln the ,Weaving ,of this special fabric' suitable ttor the manufacture 'ot collars., a reed about twenty-'tour inches long. should oithis fabric either a v Ain be used, und should be curved to torni un argwith middle ordinate of about one inch, the center of the circle forming the are being' in front or in rear of the loom.

ln, the standard fly-shuttle loom,y the insideA surfaces of the rear faces ot the shutn v tle boxes on each side of the looi'u, and the iront surfaces .of the V"reed when in. place` shuttle box race plate and the upper surfaces of the plates or lay ends and of the are all in line and form one horizontal plane; so that in such a loorn when adjusted the axes of. the shuttle boxes coineide,l and the boxes aline with each other and with thel reed and the lay. In such a loom, so adjusted, i. is possible to operate With a.shuttle and Without any Warp yarn in the loom. The shuttle traverses the picker sticks 17.

from box to box across the lay and parallel with the reed. Inv a narrow loom properly adjusted With the above described curved reed, the curve is so slight., the radius ot the circle forming the saine being about six feet, that it is also possible to operate the .loom with the shuttle traversing properly from box to box to distribute each pick of filling and beat the saine up properlyT to the fell of the cloth.

In adapting my invention to a standard loom, therefore, a straight lay may be used, with the rabbet for receiving the lower edge of the reed, and the groove in the ,reed cap for' receiving the upper edge so curved as to form the desired curve in the reed. lt may, however, in Weaving Wider fabrics, be desirable also toprovide a curved lay.

All of the above described modifications in the loom Will be more clearly understood from the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a plan View of a portion of a loom having a. curved reed and straight lay.

F igurc 2 is a similar View of a loom in which the lay as well as the reed is curved.

Figure 3 is a plan view of the reed and la 3Figure 4 is a front elevation of the reed.

Figure 5 is a vertical section taken transversely through the lay, reed and reed cap.

Figure 6 is a plan view of a portion of fabric Which may be Woven on the improved loom.

In the loom shown in Figure 1, the lay 21 is oscillated inthe usual manner by the cranlrarrns 11, and crank shaft 12. At each end of the lay is a shuttle box 13,

and the shuttle 14 is reciprocated back and forth to carry the filling thread through the shed by means of pickers 15 slidably mounted on guide rods 16, and actuated by The Warp threads 18 are actuated by the harness 19 and held in vthe usual manner between the Wires 20 of the reed, shown in Figures 3, and 5. The

parts thus far'deseribed are of standard construction.`

In carrying out my invention the lay 2l i has its rear edge curved on the line 22, and

the rabbet 23 formed in the rear upper portion of the lay for receiving' the lower rib .for receiving' the upper rib 28 of the reed.

Thus, it will be seen, that when the reed. secured to the lay, the wires 20 will form the elements of a cylindrical surface, subn stantially perpendicular to the fabric to bc Woven. and the picks as they are beaten up to the fell of the cloth, as shoivn at 29, will extend across the fabric in a series of parallel curves, while the Warp threads 1S are all straight and run lengthwise of the fabric.

In the event that thefabric to be Woven is too wide for the shuttle to traverse Without guidance from the reed, then a lay may be constructed, as shown in Figure 2, in which vthe of the shuttle boxes 30 form portions of an arc of a circle, which is concentric with the arcl of the front. surface of the curved reed, but distant from the same a distance equal to one-half the Width of the shuttle. ln this case, the pickers 31 and the picker sticks 32 travel in slightly curved paths which are determined by the guide rods 33, and the shuttle is guided along the curved inner face of the reed, the surface of the rear side of the shuttle be ing humored to fit the front surface of the shuttle box back.

.ln the application of the'present invention to the weaving of fabric specially designed for the uulnufacture of one-piece turned-down collars, the fabric will be so woven to produce-a succession of duplicate patterns 3l, each of suflioient dimensions and proper shape for the production of one stamped collar blank for the manufacture of one collar. By means of the chain head or dobby head of the loom in combination with the multiplier motion and the standard methods of shifting from one dobby pattern 4to another,v all of which are supplied on looms of thistype, :is will be clearly understood by those skilled in the art of weaving, each pattern is Woven so as to include a predetermined number of picks, as represented at 35, which will form a narrow strip having a distinctive Weave, or a change in filling, or both, adapted to form l lll() of the invention herein claimed, no further description here will be necessary.

Y the movements of the parts can take place fc, nihdrical surface.

normally without hindrance or binding. In

all the parts mentioned above as being f' curved, such curves consist of'arcslhavin a common center, but having radii of di ferent lengths.'

It will lalso be readily understood thatthe curved reed With the opposed curved chan-` nels in the lay and reed cap may beused in connection with a positively actuated shuttle, as Well as in a loom of the fly shuttle type. 4

The specic modifications necessary to adapt the loom to the purpose described and as hereinillustrated and described may, ol course, be varied to accommodate the size and shape of the particular article which is to be manufactured, as long as such variations mark no material departure from the salient features of the inventionas herein claimed. i

What is claimed is:

l. In a loom, the combination with a reed, of a lay and reed cap having curved means for securing the upper and lowerrihs h of the reed so that the dents ofthe 'reed develop a substantially cylindrical surface,

v r11 `-1-`ittle, and means for propelling the ,1 l in an arcuate path formed by said 2. In a loorngthe combination with a reed, of a lay, a reed ca having arcuate channels .for receiving an holding the upper and lower ribs o the reed so that the'dents thereof form elements of a cylindrical surface, a

g shuttle,`and means for propelling' the shuttle With the above described modication in along the curved path formed by said cylin drical surface.

3. In a loom, the combination with a reed, ,of a lay, a reed cap, means for securing the lvreed in said cap so that the dents or the reed form elements of a cylindrical surface whose axis is in front of the loom, a shuttle, and means for propellin the shuttle along the curved path formed y said cylindrical sgrface. y,

4. In a loom, the combination of a curved lay, curved reed, shuttle boxes and shuttle, in which the -front surface of the reed, the front surfaces of the shuttle box backs and initially propelling the shuttle in the direction of a line which is tangent to said' arcuate surface.

5. In a loom, the combmatlon of a curved lay having a curved reed, and'shuttle boxes in Whichthe front surfaces of the backs are 'curved to form a continuation of the curved front surface of the reed, said curve bein concave toward Ithe front of the loom, an

a shuttle traversing from box to box following said curve', the sides of the shuttle being similarly curved soas to traverse 4without binding. Y f

6. In a -loom, a la curved horizontally with its concavesur ace toward the front of the loom, a reed slmilarly curved, curved shuttle boxes whose axesare concentricwith the front surface of the reed, and a shuttle' ARTHUR H. inscannen. 

